Our 2006 HSE, has had her native electronics rendered inoperable by a downline MOST fault caused by water ingress. She has always had a few issues with her radio and it didn’t make financial sense to try to reintegrate with the factory radio so we gutted the original screen and replaced it with a double-din headunit adapter. The headunit adapter fits in with various length brackets and secures it like so.
There exist various PowerfulUK and other videos about removing the dash so that will not be covered here. Our day 1 install had us install a “Pumpkin” brand double din 7″ quad core android navigation with 2GB of RAM and 32 GB of on-board storage, along with a preinstalled MAP MicroSD data card 8-16GB, which leaves one MicroSD and USB on the front. I dropped in a 32GB MicroSD with various media. I opted for the 2GB ram version of the Android Head Unit as most are only available with 1GB ram which I thought might be a bottleneck.
The performance of the unit is what I would describe as diesel like, the quad core ARM processor completes tasks without being bottled down but without the sheer speed of Apple’s new PRO chips. Overall I am happy with the performance of downloading and updating various apps and settings. The multi-tasking never bogged down. The installed Bluetooth app is custom and perhaps limited, but it connected to my phone quickly with the password 0000. After connection there is a prompt to download the contact information. I declined as this is primarily Ali’s Range Rover although it does have Cooper Zeon’s and Rocky Mountain pinstriping.
Unfortunately we may have had to block some good traffic to survive a DDOS attack which is unfortunately on-going. Please pardon any throttling or blocks right now as we persevere through this attack. We have removed alpha functionality at this point to preserve up-time.
Thanks and Happy Easter!
Air Springs Leaking – on bump stops – raising slowly – suspension fault 30 MPH max – Cheap Air springs
UPDATE: Bilstien has doubled the price of their airsprings!
How can I tell if my air springs are leaking? Why is my air suspension on bump stops? These are common question on many Range Rover forums. To make this post get to the point the most common failure for RR air suspension will be the front airsprings. The struts are not controlled by the air suspension, but dampen the air bags which replace regular springs. Adaptive Dynamic struts are also not controlled by air but by ferromagnetic fluid and a computer which controls the viscosity of the fluid via magnetic field.
REPLACE BOTH OF YOUR FRONT AIRSPRINGS
If you suddenly find your truck on bump stops it, is almost assuredly one of the two front airsprings went. “but the whole car is on bump stops” The computer will lower all four corners to bump stops once it has found an airspring leaking, although sometimes just the front or rear will drop.
DON’T CONTINUE TO USE YOUR AIR SUSPENSION UNTIL THE SPRINGS ARE FIXED
There is a whole bunch of wallet hurt if you try to raise an airsuspension that is leaking because the air compressor wasn’t built for that and it might throw a hard code that only special LR focused computers can clear — autozone won’t help you here… In short if you try to raise your truck and hear some clanking in the back it is the air compressor killing itself.
WHERE DO I GET THE PARTS, CHEAPLY
Land Rover Screen on? Bypass MOST Module. Check the rear left for water ingress, bypass module if neccessary.
Sitting in NJ traffic my girlfriend got water in the rear seat compartment rendering the radio, backup camera, and navigation useless with only a LR green oval and blinking light. Once we met back up I took apart every piece from the rear left compartment and sprayed all the connectors down with WD-40 and pieces of the internal parts (I’m not an expert none of this should be considered advice), and placed supplemental garbage bag water shedding device this time over the electrics.
I also noted the red light from the Bluetooth module was no longer blinking, so I bypassed it by looping the input thru the output using toslink fiber optic cables and duct tape. The duct tape does get too hot to hold the fiber optic connections in place though so I have to leave that connection outside of the electrics area. We are going to update the Bluetooth module to a later version with the help of a forum guys electrical splicing magic.
I giddily awaited the Tune2Air package. After waiting months for a price drop and convincing myself I didn’t need bluetooth audio integration; I broke down and bought the $79-$89 Tune2Air from Amazon and the Ipod 30-Pin Jaguar Land Rover interface cable for about $23. Overall, very happy with the purchase so far. The install is painless, you connect the 30 pin ipod connector to the Tune2Air and the other end into the proprietary Jaguar Land Rover connector.